Habeeb Salloum investigates the mystical connection between a rather handy Mayan dwarf and ancient spirit builders of Syria.
My
driver, Ahmad, was beaming as, together we stood atop Qalaat Ibn Maani (Ibn
Maani's castle), on a hill top overlooking the remains of Palmyra - known to the
Arabs as Tadmur - in Syria.
"See these ruins? They say Solomon sent his Jinn (mythical Arab spirits) to
build this city in one night."
For me it was déjŕ vu. A few months earlier I had been at the Mayan city of
Uxmal in Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula and the guide had told a story of how a
magician built its pyramid in one night.
The two cities were thousands of kilometers apart, separated by great oceans,
yet both had eerily similar tales about the supernatural nature of their
construction.
I gazed in wonder at the majestic ruins of Palmyra which were originally made
famous by Zenobia – the legendary 'Empress of the East'. The pillars and tumbled
stones seemed to convey a message from long ago, a message from Zenobia’s time.
They told of magic riches, romance and the courage of a brilliant Arab
civilization which flowered for a short period before being snuffed out by the
legions of Rome.
The
remnants were once thriving desert metropolis, 220 km (134 mi) northeast of
Damascus, in Syria, and for centuries inspired romantic recollections by
wayfarers and literary men. Looking over them today, it is no wonder they
believed only a supernatural being could have conjured such a magnificent
metropolis in the middle of a desert.
"Rise up and go into the world to release it from error and send word to the
Jinn and I will give them leave to build Tadmur with hewn stones and columns."
God said to Solomon according to the pre-Islamic Arab poet Nabigha al Dhubyain
Like Dhubyain, Arab storytellers through the ages ascribed the building of the
city to the Jinn commandeered by Solomon. "The work of Jinns", asserted Said ibn
Taimur, Sultan of Oman, when he visited the ruins in the 1950s. Guides love to
tell tourists, as they walk them above the hot-steaming-sulphuric waters of Afqa
Spring, now a part of the luxury Cham Palace Hotel complex, that Solomon left a
Jinn in the spring to keep the water boiling
The sheer size of today's ruins surrounded by endless desert makes Ahmad's words
plausible. It appears as if someone has magically planted a colossal wreck in
the barren heart of Syria. The extraordinary Arab civilization which reached its
peak some four centuries before the dawn of Islam flourished in the city, its
economic and commercial influence becoming well-known throughout the ancient
world. The epitome of the the city’s splendour came under the rule of Queen
Zenobia, one of the most fascinating conquerors to stride across the deserts of
the Middle East.
Resenting
Roman encroachment on her territory and taking advantage of Rome's troubles with
the Germanic tribes, she declared herself 'Queen and Empress of the East' and
laid claim to the eastern half of the Roman Empire. In 269 A. D., she defeated
the army of the Roman general Heraclianus and took control of Syria and most of
Mesopotamia and Arabia. The following year her armies occupied Egypt, then
challenged Rome in Asia Minor, advancing as far as Ankara in present day Turkey.
Zenobia's military conquests were the most spectacular the Middle East had seen
since the days of Alexander the Great. In a few short years, she became Rome's
most serious threat since Hannibal. Rome bided its time and built up its army in
the east. In 272 A. D., the Roman Emperor Aurelian defeated Zenobia and brought
her back to Rome parading her in gold chains through the city streets.
After Zenobia's demise, Palmyra's star waned. The city reverted back to its
ancient Semitic name of Tadmur and faded into oblivion until rediscovered, in
the 18th century, by the Europeans.
Today, visitors walking between the stones feel they have stepped back into the
history of a superb civilization. The ancient walls, arches, bas-¬reliefs,
columns, statues, temples and tombs speak in engraved stone, telling the
never-ending visitors - about 70,000 a year - the story of Zenobia's Palmyra and
its once renowned glory.
The dominating 17th century Qalaat Ibn Maani , built in the 17th century by the
rebellious Ottoman governor, Emir Fakhir el-Din al-Maani, and forming a splendid
backdrop to the ruins, appears as a guardian watching over Zenobia's city -
majestic and haughty in its eternal isolation. As I watched the sun setting,
throwing the castle's shadows toward the ruins, I experienced a haunting dream
of how Palmyra must have appeared at the time, when as the legends say it was
built overnight by Solomon's Jinn.
It
was fitting that Palmyra would come to mind when I journeyed to Mexico's Uxmal
for the second time soon after my trip to Syria.
A little way past the entrance is the oval-shaped La Pirámide Adivino (The
Magician's Pyramid), the only one of its kind in the Mayan world. The oldest
structure in Uxmal, the pyramid gets its name the legend of how it was built in
only one night by a dwarf-magician with supernatural power. The story tells how
that the dwarf was hatched from a witch's egg and grew to maturity in one year.
His birth struck terror into the heart of the ruler of Uxmal since it was
foretold that he would be replaced by a man 'not born of a woman'.
Looking for ways to outwit, the dwarf, the ruler challenged the dwarf to a
contest of building skills. The dwarf's pyramid, built overnight, easily
outclassed the ruler's pyramid. Angered, the ruler proposed that he and the
dwarf compete to see who could break a cocoyol (a hard-shelled fruit) on his
head. As a result, the dwarf-magician, in whose skull a turtle shell had been
placed, easily broke the cocoyol, while the ruler crushed his skull.
Another
legend relates how a witch and a dwarf were told by the king of Uxmal to build a
great palace in a single night. With the help of the witch, the dwarf completed
the project on time. Today, besides the Pyramid of the Magician, the Casa de la
Vieja (the house of the old woman) in the ruins is said to be the home of this
witch who became the adoptive mother of the dwarf.
Thereafter, the dwarf's handiwork became the crowning jewel of what is
considered to be one of the most splendid archaeological site in the
Pre-Hispanic era on the American continent. Uxmal is considered one of the great
showplaces of Mayan architecture and refinement and is famous for the purity and
delicacy of its architecture and decorative art.
According to archaeological experts, Uxmal was one of the largest cities in the
Mayan world and its economic and political power, between 250 and 900 A.D.,
dominated a large area of the Yucatán. During this long era, important
intellectual and construction advances were made.
As I survey the Pyramid of the Magician, I’m transfixed by the mystery of its
magician builder. The pyramid is a testament to the ingenuity of its Mayan
builder, whoever it was. Some 40 m (131 ft) high, this colossal structure is the
tallest building on the site. .
I struggle to the top of the pyramid. All around one can see the deep-green
countryside hugging the pyramid and its sister ruins. Resting awhile atop the
pyramid, my mind wanders back to Syria’s Palmyra - could there be a connection?
Was Palmyra's story related to that of the Magician's Pyramid? Why is the
dwarf's structure the only oval-shaped pyramid in the lands of the Maya?
In Mayan mythology, there are stories that their chief god, Quetzalcoatl, had
come from the East. One day he left, promising to return. For the Maya,
therefore, the East was sacred and they believed that from the East their
bearded god would return. This proved their undoing. When the Conquistador,
Cortez, came from the East, the Maya did not resist. They believed their god had
come home.
The
tale had some base of truth. There are interesting parallels between the Mayan
civilization and the civilizations of ancient Syria, Egypt and the other lands
in the Middle East. In both ancient Egypt and the Maya world, society emphasized
the place of the semi-divine ruler within the cosmos and focused upon public
monuments. Even more interestingly, both the Maya and Mesopotamian societies
were politically fragmented, but united by an overreaching civilization - a
tradition of shared elite culture.
Like the records of ancient Egypt, Sumer and the other early states in the
Middle East, Maya texts deal with histories of specifics centres, the reigns and
political fortunes of their rulers, and with their alliances, conflicts,
genealogy and marriages. In daily life, their narratives and in their
architecture there are numerous indications of connections between the Mayans
and the ancient Middle Eastern world.
To the Mayans, the most highly prized dye was a deep purple obtained from a type
of a large sea snail - very similar to the mollusk which gave the Phoenicians
the renowned `royal purple'. On the wall of the Ball Court in Chichén Itzá, is a
replica of a ship that is similar to one carved on a stone in the Palmyra
Museum. While exploring the ruins of the second millennium city of Ugarit in
Syria, I noticed that the arch of the main gateway is exactly the same as arches
found throughout the Mayan world.
With these similarities and others like the pyramids, it is no wonder that the
stories of the supernatural builders of Palmyra and Uxmal have a strong
resonance. There is little doubt that the people of the Middle East and the
Mayan world had some connection.
The story of Solomon and his Jinn and that of the magician in Uxmal could be the
same tale.
Getting There
Palmyra
A good number of the world's airlines fly to Damascus, Syria.
When in Damascus, the best way to explore Palmyra and the other
historic sites in Syria is to contact Cham Palaces and Hotels in
Damascus: see website:
http://www.chamhotels.com
They offer tours to all parts of Syria, hotels in every major city
in Syria and renting autos. However, if you want to go it alone,
there are regular buses from Damascus - very reasonably priced.
Also, you can hire an auto with its driver. Cost, depending on
bargaining, about US$120. per day from early morning until late at
night. Besides the car and driver, the gas is included - more if the
driver is English-speaking.
Uxmal
From Mexico City there are local airlines that fly to Mérida. In
Mérida you can join a tour group which, besides Uxmal takes in a
number of other Mayan sites, includes the cost for guide
transportation, lunch, entrance fee, at a cost of some US$80 -
Merida Tours.is a good company to arrange such a tour. However, if
you want to drive, the roads are good, but beware of the hundreds of
topes (man-made bumps in the roads). A small car rents for around
US$60 per day - less if you bargain or if not fussy about the auto.
Some Facts about Syria and Mexico
Palmyra
1) A good dining place in Palmyra is the Palmyra Tourist Restaurant,
located across the street from the museum. Cost of a meal, about
US$8.
2) The top places to stay in in Palmyra, is the Palmyra Cham Palace,
located in the edge of the ruins. However, there are many budget
hotels in the city like the excellent and historic Zenobia Hotel,
built atop the ruins, and New Afqa Hotel - a very clean and
inexpensive abode.
3) Despite being depicted in some of the Western media as a land
full of terrorists, Syria is very safe for travellers - one of the
safest countries in the world. Even women travelling alone find few
problems.
Uxmal
1)There is an excellent 'light and sound' show held every evening
which recounts the history of Uxmal
2) When visiting the Mayan sites, you should wear a hat, take
sunblock lotion, take a bottle of drinking water and wear
comfortable rubber-soled shoes since stone steps can be slippery.
3) Beware! It is a criminal offence to take artifacts or souvenirs
from the sites or out of the country.