Live to dive

Jo Balmer gets hooked on the diver’s lifestyle in Thailand.

The now well established Thai tourism industry is in the middle of yet another boom, an underwater boom that has seen an explosion in the number of dive resorts and schools on the southern island of Koh Tao.

What was until a few years ago a quiet, undeveloped island is quickly changing. Not only is the one road on the island now partly paved, but electricity is available to cater to the growing range of accommodation options available.

So what does the island paradise have to offer now it has been ‘discovered’? Along with over 30 dive schools, 10 dive sites, warm water, high underwater visibility, coral reefs, wooden bungalows and palm fringed beaches, there’s the gorgeous Thai food (good and cheap), Thai culture and of course the locals’ never-ending hospitality.

Most resorts offer dive-inclusive packages, whether it’s a one-off fun dive or week-long courses ranging in certification from Open Water Diver to the coveted Master Diver qualification.

Taking up a course puts you into a classroom like no other earth – and that’s before the underwater lessons. A whiteboard is used and textbooks adorn the wooden table, but they’re the only indicators that you’re not in dream school. Palm trees flank the patio that extends out into the clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand and long tail boats float in the distance. This is paradise – both above and below the water.

As the sun sets over Sai Ree beach, small waves lap the wooden decking as the aromas of the kitchen begin to waft over the sundowner crowd. After a hard day’s dive lesson in the water, there’s nothing like a cool beer and a Thai curry to wind down.

Conversation turns to what each group saw that day including tales of the famed Trigger fish which attacks divers. It has gained such notoriety amongst divers that it has gained its own hand signal – a pistol. Not only does it attack divers but has rendered several unconscious from a well targeted charge to the head. Not to be outdone the small Cleaner fish attaches to divers’ legs, fins, arms and tanks in a bid to rid its host of the bacteria.
Dive sites such as White Rock, located slightly off the island, are home an amazing array of marine life. Huge yellow Angel fish swim past in pairs, not bothered by the group of clumsy humans. A Moray eel swims across a coral outcrop and disappears into a hole. Another constant source of entertainment for new divers is the Christmas Tree worm, which in the blink of an eye disappears into the rock the moment its surrounding waters are disturbed.

Despite the huge number of dive schools, the underwater world remains a peaceful one, the occasional cluster of bubbles rising past you the only indication of divers further below. Turning a corner to find a group on their knees at 18m underwater is not a rare thing as they practice skills on their way to passing various dive certificates.

While the adrenaline flows beneath the waves, on land the island proves to be a more than relaxed place, but once the sun has set there’s no thought of retiring to your cosy wooden bungalow. Instead it’s off to AC’s nightclub. A corny, tacky disco that is notorious for being the first on the island. Divers are a party kind of people: a group who are not in their profession for the money, but for the love of the lifestyle which they enjoy so much. They live life by the ‘work hard, play harder’ rule and AC’s at night bears this out.

Eventually the tunes of Bob Marley fade into the night before the sights and sounds of another stunning sunrise signals the beginning of another day in paradise. Those beginning their dive adventure are hooked. For the dive teachers, it’s just another day at the office, one that just happens to be on a sun-drenched island in the Gulf of Thailand, with the best food and spectacular scenery. Where do I sign up?

Details

The author did a 4 day PADI Open Water Certificate with Big Blue Dive Resort on Koh Tao, Thailand. The package included 4 days tuition, 4 open water dives, equipment hire, 4 nights accommodation, 4 dinners and 4 breakfasts for 7800 Baht (around US$200). A bargain in any currency!
Go to www.bigbluediving.com .

Related websites:

www.diveasia.com
www.divetheworldthailand.com 
www.infohub.com 
www.divethailand.info

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