Cameras in Cambodia

I’m rather conspicuous in a Cambodian marketplace. Six foot, green eyes, pale skin and a relatively big nose – at least by Cambodian standards. Add to that a loud Canadian voice, a photojournalist’s vest, two Nikon SLR’s and a bevy of lenses and it’s hard to blend in. But as a professional photographer and photo-tour leader, it’s the kit I have to travel with – except for the voice of course. I could possibly do something about that.

I regularly travel overseas leading photographic workshops in countries across the globe. Those travelling with me can photograph as they please - not a common freedom with many organised photo-tours - while still enjoying the benefits of a tour guide, comfortable accommodation and complete organisation.

This year the outbreak of SARS saw a trip to China’s Yunnan province dropped, but the alternative, Cambodia, more than made up for any disappointment.

A fascinating place, Cambodia has progressed remarkably well despite the devastation and genocide wreaked by Pol Pot and his unfathomably brutal Khmer Rouge regime in the late 1970’s. Our local guide, Sothy, lost his parents when he was twelve. As teachers, a profession seen as dangerous to the Pol Pot regime, they were taken away and never seen again. When Sothy’s parents failed to return, friends in the camp in which they were interred encouraged them to escape. For weeks afterwards Sothy and his brother ran through the jungle, living on handfuls of rice and using any means they could to convince Khmer Rouge soldiers not to shoot them. Through cunning and determination they lived through the ordeal.

However, as history tells us, millions didn’t survive and Cambodia’s monument to those who disappeared in the genocide is the Killing Fields. Here, tourists amble through a field of former mass graves, where whitened, broken pieces of human bones still litter the ground, and ragged shreds of clothes worn by those poor unfortunates are still visible as they protrude from the soil. A building on the site now houses the skulls of thousands of murdered souls.

Not a pleasant place to visit by any means and there were many tears among our group. However, the experience delivers a sense of the resilient culture that has emerged since. By and large, the people of Cambodia live simply and extract all they can from the simpler, everyday joys of life, something perhaps crystallised by the ever-present history of violence.

The result of Cambodia’s gradual ascension back to normality is a struggling society that finds itself tottering between 21st century technologies and the traditions of an age-old culture. For the photographer, this is an ideal place to be. Images abound and range from tropical landscapes and ancient temples to multitudes of faces and colours in villages and vegetable markets. It’s a fascinating destination for any traveller and one of the few places in the world with such a unique set of visual circumstances.

Photographers, I believe, endeavour to see things in a different light (quite literally) in the pursuit of their craft. And so they gather in hotel lobbies at five a.m., ready to be on location for the early morning light; the best of the day. Nine o’clock it’s back for breakfast, shopping, sightseeing and a quick swim until mid afternoon before setting out to capture the sunset light. We haunt the riverside and rural villages, marketplaces and backstreets in search of images that capture daily life and culture.

Arriving one afternoon, my group found itself in a riverside Muslim village. This community was unique given that Cambodia is a mostly Buddhist nation. Children gathered in the small schoolyard and promptly followed us through the streets, giggling among themselves and clambering for attention. They loved being photographed. Parents looked on and calmly interacted with us, language differences only a minor hindrance.

In addition to villages and marketplaces, we took in the famous temples, which, in their day, rivalled the greatest cultural centres known to man.

Angkor Wat, a magnificent city with modern canals and complex infrastructures, is nothing compared to what it had been in its ancient context. Centuries of abandonment and neglect have inflicted its damage, yet the ancient site remains truly remarkable and now one of the most photographed places on earth.

We visited the temple areas at times when the warm glow of morning or afternoon light illuminated the saffron robes of the many Buddhist monks. By and large they are a friendly bunch and not averse to being photographed, understanding that the rich colour of their clothing and the depth of religious devotion captivates photographers. It was also easy to converse with them, discussing politics and ideals with those who had a good grasp of English.

One of the most remarkable temples in the Siem Reap area is Ta Phrom Temple, the site of much of the filming of Lara Croft, Tomb Raider. This ancient complex has been overgrown by large fig trees, the roots of which have enveloped buildings and created an ethereal atmosphere, again creating many compositional choices for the keen-eyed photographer.

With its geographical beauty, and that of its people and way of life, Cambodia offers a feast of opportunity for photographers. The country’s collective uniqueness will satisfy anyone wishing to expand their photography skills, from amateur to professional, such is the multi-layered palate of sights.