The other side of Zanzibar

© Javed Jeferji

Zanzibar: the name alone conjures up exotic images of sun and spice, coconuts and conch shells, diving and daydreaming. But paradise is never perfect.

As Africa’s most popular island destination, Zanzibar has suffered for its explosion in popularity over the last ten years. Lying just six degrees south of the equator off mainland Tanzania, the Archipelago is a Mecca for tour groups keen to explore the cobbled back lanes and markets of capital Stone Town, picture postcard beaches and staunch Afro-Arab culture which gives Zanzibar its unique flavour.

European-style resorts have sprung up along the main island’s east coast and on several of the smaller islets dotted around. Western-run tourist operations are plentiful and pizza and pasta is as freely available as local staple, rice. There are rumours of locals sabotaging new development sites and some talk of a growing resentment within local communities of the outsider influx. Add to that the Zanzibar people’s historically proud tradition of independence and way of life and you get the feeling that this tropical paradise might not be such a peaceful ocean oasis.

There is, however, another side, which despite the islands’ relatively small size is rarely seen by travellers who by the numbers are usually on time-limited package tours and safaris.

From collecting shells with local Muslim women and living with a village family to searching for new dive sites in crystalline waters with locals who are considered the best fishermen on East African seas, there are many ways to gain a more intimate insight into the islands.

Zanzibar’s history of slave-trading, spice-trading and English and Omani colonial domination has painted a history more unique than most destinations. The islands are deeply Muslim while boasting a strong East African influence and a ubiquitously relaxed lifestyle that goes hand in hand with living in such a paradisiacal setting.

Key to getting to know the real Zanzibar is learning a little of the local lingo, Swahili – a mix of ancient Arabic and English – or at the very least taking a local interpreter on your exploration of the islands. Then it’s just about going where the tour groups – and maps – don’t.

© Javed Jeferji

As one independent traveller puts it: “Wherever roads are crap, that’s where to go.” Cars and motorbikes are easily hired in Stone Town and with the freedom of wheels comes the freedom to turn up that dusty, potholed road at the end of which are the best spots; usually a small village or just a few dwellings and no tour groups. If you can get to know the local owners you might be able to arrange a home-stay; the best way to immerse yourself in local culture.

One road worth following heads north, leading to the main backpacker and day tripper haunt, Nungwi, which still offers a small village atmosphere with the addition of a few ‘cool’ beach bars, its popularity based on the fact that some of the Zanzibar’s better reefs and dive sites are nearby. But the tendency of travellers to beat the path only between bed, beach and bar means the actual village, a short walk away from the main accommodation and boat launch centre, is usually ignored and therefore a great place to spend some time exploring.

Another popular spot for dive freaks who like to tell fish stories over a beer in the evenings is Kendwa Rocks on the west coast. Mid to lower end beach bungalows keep the ambiance casual and there’s usually a relaxed party or two to do the rounds of each night.

© Javed Jeferji

Kizimkazi in the south is a beautiful village where locals are still living an unaffected traditional Muslim lifestyle in mud brick housing amid old mosques. Nearby you can swim with dolphins daily.

While the east coast has been marked by resort and urban development, there remain some areas – like the 20 kilometre stretch of beaches and inlets between Bwejuu and Pongwe – that make a trip worthwhile.

But to really get away travellers need to sail, preferably on a traditional dhow, fifty kilometres north to the clove-scented island of Pemba. Floating in the shadow of Zanzibar’s main island, Pemba offers the best diving of all and, with much less tourist infrastructure and a more third world feel, is a more authentic experience amid its lush foliage and laid-back villages. “It’s Zanzibar twenty years ago,” says a local resident.

Pemba is, however, coming into its own in the tourist stakes with its dive safaris. With six days spent aboard a boat visiting the most isolated dive sites around the islands, it’s scuba for the adventurous.

© Javed Jeferji

Those wanting to delve deeper into Zanzibari culture might look into the islands’ undercurrent of witchcraft and voodooism, another aspect of island life that’s often overlooked. Kizimkasi in the south and Pemba are both good places to seek out the mysterious practise however most villages have a witchdoctor. But be extremely respectful when you investigate: Zanzibaris take it as seriously as their Islam and the last thing you want is to be cursed in paradise.

And while tourists abound in UNESCO-listed Stone Town, it remains a must-see. The best bet is to find a local child – there’s plenty hanging around – to take you on a tour in the labyrinth of stone-clad alleyways. The Indo-Afro-Arab architecture is like nothing else and the local kids are only too happy to take you to parts of the old city that aren’t frequented by tour groups. Some will even take you home for dinner with their family.

© Javed Jeferji

Those looking for a culinary experience won’t be disappointed either, as Zanzibari food rates as some of the best in the world, especially the coconut-tinged fish dishes.

“I hated seafood until I came to Zanzibar,” says traveller Jen. “But one day during Ramadam a small boy offered some. Given he was poor and the fact that it’s considered a hugely honourable gesture during their Holy Month, I couldn’t refuse. When the fish hit my mouth it just melted and so did I.”

I’ll have the coconut fish please, extra Zanzibari-spice, easy on the voodoo.