Situated in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve on the perimeter of the Kruger National Park and reputed to contain some of the best private game lodges in the country, Ulusaba towers above the rest both metaphorically and literally.
Carefully carved into the rock 800 feet above the bushveld the fortress that is Rock Lodge, one of two lodge accommodations at Ulusaba, pinnacles the kopie (rocky outcrop), entertaining the most exquisite of views. Standing up there for the first time, I was overwhelmed by the sense of solitude that swept over me as I scanned acre upon acre of unspoilt vegetation, extending to the far reaches of the horizon and dancing against the backdrop of the Drakensberg Mountain range.
Individually dressed suites, each with their own ethnic tale, dominate the theme at Rock Lodge. The opulent colours of different tribes are used to capture the essence of the surroundings and the rooms are adorned with beautiful African creations including beadwork, carvings and original object d’art; the walls complemented by framed wildlife in sepia film.

Also housed atop the escarpment is the fully equipped gym, complete with floor to ceiling windows, spoiling fitness fanatics with a 360-degree view of the landscape below. Favouring life’s simple pleasures, I was rather partial to the Aroma Boma spa where facials, aromatherapeutic massages and other heavenly treatments made for the perfect ending to my adventure-rich day.
Far below, on the banks of the dry Mabrak riverbed stand the thatched, ‘tree-house style’ suites of Safari Lodge. Each room, built on stilts, is connected by wooden swing bridges that are suspended high enough to allow lofty elephants and giraffe to wander through the bush without obstacle. Private decks provide the perfect vantage spot for bird watching, game viewing or as I preferred, simply stargazing beneath the black African sky with a bottle of South Africa’s finest.

But it’s not the stylish, first-class luxury that embraces the spirit of Ulusaba, nor the warmth and unfailing attentiveness of its staff, but rather the intimacy with Africa’s vast animal kingdom. It’s not uncommon to witness families of Elephant or herds of Impala wallowing by the nearby watering hole - where amphibious hippo submerge themselves under the cool of the water to protect their sensitive skin from the piercing sun, or crocodiles glide log-like waiting for their prey. And never short in abundance are the child-like jesters of the bush: swinging from tree to vine, clambering above the thatched roofs and running amok through the lodge, I would caution guests not to leave possessions or food lying about as monkeys are renowned for their light-fingered stealth.

Twice-daily game drives, conducted in the early morning and the late afternoon will bring visitors within metres of Africa’s big five: elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard among other more common, but equally magnificent fauna. A Ranger and Tracker, both oracles of the bush, accompany guests in open-top Land Rovers delivering an informative and intriguing view of the movements and behaviour of wildlife, the uses, benefits and healing agents of plants and shrubs, and the interconnectedness of these two worlds. As the sun goes down, out come an assortment of delectable snacks and refreshing cocktails. This is my favourite part of the day - African sunsets are the most beautiful I‘ve seen and to witness one is reason enough to make that twelve-hour flight.

If exploring the bush by Land Rover is not exhilarating enough, guided bushwalks through the reserve are there for the taking. Protected by the wisdom of the Ranger, guests are taken through grasslands and rivers, and over various terrains where they are educated on the more obscure creatures of the wild such as insects, reptiles and the rich array of colourful birds. Although we were briefed on what not to do in the presence of danger, this experience left me feeling particularly fearful of coming face-to-face with whatever might be lurking behind the next bush or rocky outcrop. You can imagine my relief when the flickering of candles around the dining area came into view and the familiar clicking tongues of the locals, chatting amiably whilst preparing for the evening’s festivities could be heard.

Dinners at Ulusaba can be enjoyed in the plush dining room of the Lodge, around the fire of the Boma or outside, under the stars. As a vegetarian I was concerned that this predominantly meat-eating country where Kudu and Impala can be found on the menu would not cater to my requirements. On the contrary, I was pleasantly surprised by the extensive menu, which delivers a selection of exotic vegetarian dishes that left me spoilt for choice on more than one occasion. Complements to the chefs who are not only skilled at bringing together traditional flavours with fine cuisine but at artfully presenting each dish too.

If it’s an authentic cultural experience you’re after, a visit to the nearby Shangaan village is a must, where traditional singing and dancing embodies the joy and affection of the African people. After the entertainment, you are invited to sit around a fire to feast on a local dish of pap (ground, cooked corn) and relish whilst members of the tribe recount stories of old.
The dawn is broken by the rambling chit-chatter of Bulbuls accented by the low, melodic calling of Doves. In the distance, the highly vocal, loud ringing “whow-kayow-kwow” of the Fish Eagle is softened by the baritone moan of a Lion, accompanied by the slash of a Zebra’s tail and the snapping of twigs and leaves as Elephants and Giraffe graze nearby. As the sun rises, turning the dusty pink sky to blue, I am grateful to have flirted with Africa.