Going outback Japanese-style

The drive to Australian spa country in the south eastern state of Victoria is a pretty one, punctuated by rolling green hills, dense foliage and sweet looking bed and breakfasts. It only takes 90 minutes directly but we manage to meander through surrounding towns and arrive considerably later. In place of an argument about poor map reading, we wind down our windows and breathe in fresh country air.

The towns of Daylesford and Hepburn Springs are known for their Swiss-Italian heritage: miners and other immigrants came here to enjoy the mineral springs to which they were accustomed in their homelands. We are nevertheless surprised, then, to discover an authentic Japanese inn or “ryokan” amongst more traditional spas and federation-style accommodation.

Shizuka Ryokan is tucked off the road in Hepburn Springs. We nearly miss the turn-off and then see the unmistakeable Japanese-style roof. Set on a four-acre property, Shizuka is surrounded by beautiful Japanese inspired gardens, which look strangely comfortable in the surrounding Aussie tea-tree and eucalypt bushland. Kangaroos and native birds frequent the property and evidently don’t mind the east meets west sensibility. We walk up the front path vowing to come back out and take pictures.

Simply entering the front door in takes a load off your shoulders. We are greeted softly and invited to remove our shoes and replace them with soft white scuff slippers.

We are led to our room via a verandah that overlooks a Zen sand and stone garden. Everything is sleek and minimalist.

Our host, Peter McConvill shows us around our quarters: an enormous spa overlooking a traditional Japanese garden, authentic tatami straw mats on the floor, sliding rice paper screens and a gorgeous kimono in one corner. The garden features running water, Japanese clogs at the door and lush green plants which complement the colour scheme of the room. It’s as if we are the only people for miles.

McConvill says the intention was to create a space to escape from life and stress.

“The emphasis is very much on relaxation,” he says. “That’s why we don’t have phones or televisions here.”

He leaves us with brochures for the visiting spa services and we look at each other delightedly.

“But where are the beds?” my companion laughs. I had been wondering the same thing. We rush around looking for a secret compartment, thinking perhaps we would sleep in another room. The information pamphlet says we will be sleeping on futons but we have no idea where they are or how they will get them into the room.

It’s not too long before we succumb to the lure of a massage and facial in Shizuka’s treatment room. We book our times and lounge around in our room’s garden wearing the Japanese robes provided. The massage therapist knocks on our door and leads me to the treatment room where she proceeds to help me forget everything but the gentle music she plays during the treatment. It is a blissful hour and I return to the room floating on a cloud.

In the evening, we are asked if we would like dinner in the dining room or in our quarters. Having never experienced room service, we opt for the latter but I doubt many top hotels would have service to rival our dinner experience.

We settle at our low kotatsu table on zaisu chairs. A gentle knock precedes our entrees: beautifully presented sushi with delicious seafood and crisp fresh and pickled vegetables. We tuck in heartily and are surprised to hear another knock at the door: this time seafood and vegetables cooked in tempura that is light as a feather. We toast with our green tea and are further surprised to see our lovely Japanese servers carrying trays of sukiyaki. There are bowls of fragrant broth with beef and vegetables and a raw egg in a bowl beside it. Our server softly explains how to crack the egg and whisk it, then dip the tender strips of beef in it before eating. Strange as it may sound, the egg is a softening addition to the tasty broth.

Thoroughly sated, we ask to postpone dessert to the dining hall in an hour’s time.

We wander to the hall in our robes and notice other guests have done the same. The incredibly relaxing aura of the place seems to remove people’s inhibitions. As we indulge once again, this time in green tea ice cream, I catch the eye of another guest who smiles blissfully as she swallows another spoonful of the semi-sweet dessert.

Returning to our room, the bed conundrum is solved. While we were completing our feast, our hosts were setting up two plush futons with crisp ice green and white sheets. (They were in a cupboard in our room. Investigative journalists, we are not.) A small lantern provides a soothing glow in the room and with our garden shutters pulled back, we can see the night sky dusted with stars.

We sleep warm and cosy in our Japanese apartment and have a leisurely spa in the morning. Then it’s off to breakfast on succulent salmon steaks, miso soup and rice with an unidentifiable but delicious Japanese seaweed flake mix. We sit in the dining hall drenched in quiet and sunshine, soaking in the tranquillity. The bonus is a luxury late checkout time of 11am.

Reluctantly, we pack and stow our comfortable white slippers. As we leave our tranquil haven, we notice a bowl of apples at the front desk. Our host offers us a few: “They’re from our own tree out the back.”

As we begin our drive back to Victoria’s capital, Melbourne, wrestling with the map, I take a bite. Sweet, crisp and a little surprising, it is the perfect produce to represent this small slice of Japan in Australia. Delicious.