Grains of truth: culinary travels in NY, USA

It’s a fact: every corner of the globe can boast a vibrant rice culture. After all, over half of the world's population relies on rice: according to the International Rice Research Institute it accounts for 20 per cent of the world population’s calorie intake. Countless countries proudly proclaim a national rice dish - paella, risotto, nasi goreng and bibimbap, to name but a few. But the good ole US of A? New York, no less?

Pounding the pavements of the Big Apple one afternoon, it struck me that indeed I had passed a conspicuously large number of eateries dedicated to rice. The city’s eating stops are undoubtedly renowned for reflecting a mélange of ethnic diversity, and sampling the city’s colourful gastronomic terrain is a great way of getting a feel for the place whose foundation rests on a tradition of welcoming immigrants – and their cuisine – from across the globe.

So for a unique twist on the gourmet trail, why not eat your way through this array of New York’s finest rice-themed establishments? Indeed, I challenge you to find a more apt common gastronomic denominator through which to enjoy New York's multicultural offerings. And so to five of the best…

Risotteria
If you were to have a risotto every day at this buzzing West Village gluten-free haven, it would be 111 days before you would encounter the same dish twice. Diners at this casual and contemporary hop-on hop-off can choose from Arborio, Vialone Nano and Carnaroli rice, although the difference between these short-grain varieties is so nuanced it’s best to leave it to the experts. There are 37 combinations of ingredients to add to the rice ranging from the all-vegetarian feta, spinach and roasted red peppers to the toothsome amalgam of parma ham, fontina and arugula. Momma would probably not approve of proprietor Joseph Pace’s time-saving technique of par-cooking the rice then throwing in the additional ingredients when orders come in, with a ladle of stock and completing the dish with high-voltage stirring. But that customers have a plate of piled-high, steaming risotto, with each pearly grain cooked to al dente perfection and luxuriating in creamy unctuousness within 10 minutes of being seated, makes this compromise entirely forgivable. Risotteria, 270 Bleeker Street, Tel 212 -924-6664, www.risotteria.com


B-bap
A world away from the usual hole in the wall joint, this highly-designed, brand new fusion rice bar in gentrified Hell’s Kitchen, is New York’s answer to funky Korean-esque fast food. From its sleek curved glass counter set against the raw brick wall, it serves one offering, bibimbap. Korea’s famous one-bowl rice dish traditionally arrives to the diner already assembled in one of four or five guises, each one distinguished by a distinct set of toppings sitting on warm white rice, explains bibimbap historian and expert, Young-Bok Kim. But purists best stay away from B-bap. Choice is at the heart of 27-year-old, first-time entrepreneur Jeena Kim’s salubrious concept. Customers choose their base from a range of short grain sticky white rice, an intensely flavored green tea rice, vermicelli rice noodles and for those sticking stubbornly to the Atkins, mixed greens. They then add a protein of lean beef, chicken or tofu and their choice of vegetable toppings prepared by Ms Kim’s aunt and executive chef. Paper-thin yellow or white omelet strips add a quirky touch and finally a sauce. Fiery chili pepper paste or gochujang is a nod to authenticity and black pepper sauce and tangy soy vinaigrette add a more tempered yet still gutsy kick to round off the dish. B-bap, 830 9th Ave, Tel 212- 757- 2379, www.b-bap.com

NY Dosas
Dosa master Thiru Kumar sure knows how to work it. As he churns out these South Indian crepes with theatrical flourish, he flirts effortlessly with female tourists who have traveled to downtown Manhattan in search of his illustrious fare, partakes in quick-fire banter with regulars and all the while keeps a beady eye on the coffers. Armed with grandmother’s recipes for these delicacies made from a ground rice based, naturally fermented batter, the Sri Lankan immigrant with a well coiffed mustache has offered a sizeable vegan-friendly menu from his cart on the south side of Washington Square for the last seven years. His most popular order is his award-winning Special Pondicherry, a rice and lentil dosa griddled until golden then filled with tongue-tingling, spiced potato chunks, chopped salad leaves and a sprinkling of crunchy raw carrot and sweet red pepper. However, for a real treat, opt for the melt-in-the-mouth Rava Masala Dosa. The rice and cream of wheat batter, liberally scattered with aromatic fenugreek seeds is cooked to an almost translucent wafer then wrapped around the spiced potato and served, like all the dosas, with grandmother’s special coconut chutney and sambar- a moreish vegetable and lentil gravy. And if you have a little room left, why not split an order of the jaffna lunch. These small tender crumbed rice pancakes get their light green hue from fresh herbs ground into the batter and mouth-filling savory flavor from whole curry leaves.  NY Dosa, Washington Square park at West 4th and Sullivan, Tel 917-710-2092

 
Congee Village

“You name it, we make it,” says Eddie Yee, manager at this East Village Chinese eatery. He refers, of course, to the innumerable renderings of the Cantonese rice porridge the joint is named after. Traditionally eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the rice dependent region of Southern China, congee is similarly available around the clock at Congee Village from 10.30am to 12.30am. If diners find nothing appealing amongst the 30 different offerings of congee on the menu they are welcome to devise their own concoctions from ingredients as familiar as chicken, shitake mushrooms and pork, as luxurious as lobster, scallop and abalone or as exotic as snails, frog meat and pig’s blood. The base of rice and water with a generous sprinkling of dried scallops, for flavor, is boiled first thing in the morning in large cauldrons until the saturated grains burst and the porridge reaches a thick yet still soupy consistency. It is then left to simmer gently through the day until each order is customized. The congee is served bubbling in a searingly hot clay pot sitting in a bamboo sheath to protect wayward fingers. The chicken and shitake mushroom is a popular choice, particularly with American diners, and at $3.95, a veritable bargain. With a copious amount of tender chicken pieces, thick slices of earthy and fleshy shitake and a sprinkling of chopped scallions for a fresh, verdant flavor, a touch of soy and a sprinkling of ground white pepper are all the condiments necessary for a deeply satisfying meal. Congee Village, 100 Allen Street, Tel 212- 941 – 1818, www.congeevillagerestaurants.com

Rice and Beans
Humberto Lavalli has been adding Brazilian flavor to 9th Avenue’s eclectic mix of international restaurants for the last 18 years. For Lavalli, a Brazilian native and chef and co-owner of Rice ‘n’ Beans, who moved to New York 33 years ago, no Brazilian meal is complete without rice and beans. But in spite of the humble look of the place, which is decorated with local crafts and in need of a new lick of paint, Lavalli offers a touch of Latin American luxury. According to Richard Wilk, anthropologist and Director of Food Studies at Indiana University, rice as a staple is the privilege of the middle classes in Latin America and if it’s on your plate regularly, a sign that you had made it in society. As for the rest, it’s a specialty reserved for holidays and Sunday dinner. Alongside black and red beans, Lavalli a self-confessed stickler for authenticity, currently offers white long grain rice, sautéed with onion and garlic and yellow rice infused with the distinctive perfume of saffron strands and plans to introduce spinach and tomato flavored rice to the menu soon. For the ultimate in Brazilian festive fare, enjoy the rice sides with Feijoada, a traditional hearty stew made with black beans and a host of meat cuts including pork loin, sausage, spare ribs and bacon, slow cooked for hours until meltingly tender.  Rice ‘n’ Beans Restaurant, 744 9th Ave, Tel 212-265-4444, www.ricenbeansrestaurant.com

And the rest…

Rice to Riches
A Nolita rice pudding specialist with a plethora of indulgent flavors
37 Spring Street, Tel 212-274-0008

Rice NY
A chain offering a compendium of global rice dishes
292 Elizabeth Street, Tel 212-226-5775
115 Lexington Avenue, Tel 212-686-5400
81 Washington Street, Tel 718-222-9880
116 Dekalb Avenue, Tel 718-858-2700

Chicken & Rice Van
A NYC institution selling Halal Pakistani –inspired spicy chicken and rice.
Between 53rd and 6th Ave, south west corner

DETAILS
Nadia Arumugam is a food writer, recipe writer and general gastronome. She was the food editor at Fresh magazine - a leading, glossy UK food and lifestyle publication and she contributes recipe and feature articles to numerous women's and lifestyle magazines both in the UK and abroad.